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When the skin barrier is inflamed and compromised, my approach is not to throw more products at it.
I use a staged approach that allows the skin to settle first, before gradually reintroducing physiological skincare.
PHASE 1 | DAYS 0–3
🚫 ZERO THERAPY
For the first 3 days, nothing is applied to the affected areas.
No serums.
No moisturisers.
No oils.
No makeup on the affected area.
The rest of the face, neck and décolletage can continue to be treated appropriately.
For cleansing the affected area:
💧 Tepid, filtered water + Essential Cleansing Cloth only.
The goal?
Remove potential irritants and give the compromised skin barrier a chance to settle.
PHASE 2 | DAYS 3–10
🧴 INTRODUCE MINIMALIST SUPPORT
After the initial 3-day period:
Cleanse:
Bespoke Cleanser
→ 75 mL Cleansing Milk with DMS
→ 75 mL Cleansing Gel
Then:
💧 Liposome Concentrate Plus
Apply only to the affected area.
Nothing else.
We're deliberately keeping the routine extremely simple.
PHASE 3 | DAYS 10–20
🧬 BUILD SLOWLY
Continue with the Bespoke Cleanser.
Then introduce:
💧 Liposome Concentrate Plus
＋
🧬 EGCG Liposomes
Again, no other skincare products on the affected area.
The principle is:
Introduce → observe → allow the skin to adapt.
PHASE 4 | DAY 20–30+
🧴 REBUILD — SLOWLY
Once the skin has stabilised, we can begin gradually introducing DMS Base Creams.
And this is where I really emphasise:
GO LOW. GO SLOW.
Don't suddenly return to a 7-step skincare routine because your skin looks better.
The goal is to progressively support the skin barrier without overwhelming it.
WHY THESE PRODUCTS?
💧 Essential Cleansing Cloth + filtered water
When the skin barrier is severely compromised, even cleansing can become irritating.
PD skin can have increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced barrier function, so during the initial reset I want to minimise unnecessary exposure to cleansing agents.
The Essential Cleansing Cloth with tepid, filtered water provides an extremely gentle approach while the skin settles.
🧴 Bespoke Cleansing Milk + Cleansing Gel
Once the initial reset is complete, we can introduce a customised 75/75 blend of Cleansing Milk with DMS and Cleansing Gel.
The aim isn't simply to “clean” the skin.
The formulation needs to provide effective cleansing without excessively stripping the fragile stratum corneum.
The lipid balance of the cleansing system is important when we're trying to support compromised skin.
Because it is a rinse-off preparation, the introduction of DMS at this stage provides a very different exposure compared with leaving a rich DMS preparation sitting on actively inflamed skin.
💧 Liposome Concentrate Plus
This is where we begin introducing targeted support.
Liposome Concentrate Plus contains active ingredients selected for their anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and skin-barrier-supportive properties, including activity relevant to serine proteases and microbial balance.
The goal is to introduce targeted support without immediately layering multiple products onto compromised skin.
🧬 EGCG Liposomes
EGCG — epigallocatechin gallate — is a powerful polyphenol from green tea.
In skincare, EGCG is particularly interesting for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
It can also support processes involved in keratinocyte differentiation and the formation of important barrier proteins such as keratin and filaggrin.
This makes it particularly interesting when our goal is to support the skin's natural barrier architecture.
🧴 DMS Base Creams
These come later.
Once the skin has stabilised, DMS Base Creams can be introduced gradually to provide more comprehensive physiological barrier support.
But with PD:
More isn't better.
We introduce them slowly, in small amounts and according to how the individual skin responds.
OTHER ACTIVES I MAY CONSIDER
Depending on the individual presentation, additional actives may be considered, including:
→ Hamamelis Extract
→ Grape Seed Liposomal Extract
→ Complexion Skin Care Liposomes Plus
→ Boswellia Nanoparticles
→ D-Panthenol
These aren't automatically added to every PD protocol.
This is the whole point of individualised skincare.
I want to know what your skin needs now — not what every PD sufferer needs.
Why such a minimalist approach?
Because PD skin doesn't necessarily need more products.
It needs less irritation, less complexity and carefully selected physiological skincare while the barrier recovers.
This is also why I don't recommend blindly following someone else's PD routine.
Your skin, your triggers, your barrier and your response all need to be considered.
✨ Want to know what your skin actually needs?
You can also complete my FREE Skin Assessment Form and I’ll help you identify the best starting point for your skin.
👉 https://form.jotform.com/242747070769870
Whether you're dealing with a recent flare or persistent perioral dermatitis, the goal is to understand your skin, your triggers and what your barrier needs — rather than simply adding more products.